Bayeux, France, part 2

Having been dropped off at our hotel after our Normandy tour, we walked over to the Bayeux Museum of the Normandy Invasion, which housed very detailed displays of actual newspapers, communiqués, letters and even propaganda leaflets from the invasion. As is my style, I went through the displays in depth while Hannah napped in a chair. Eventually I realized that there is just too much in Normandy to see in one visit, and we agreed to return.

After touring historical sites and museums all day it was time to indulge Hannah's wishes. Next stop: the laundromat! Actually, it was high on my list, too, as we were both eager to lose that funky smell we'd picked up around Barçelona.

With one day left before the 55th anniversary of D-Day, we cast ourselves further back in time to another invasion, this one in the other direction. We visited the famous Bayeux Tapestry, the 900 year old, 70 meter long embroidered tapestry that depicts William the Conqueror's invasion and conquest of England in 1066. The gallery has the whole tapestry hung along the wall and an audio guide provides commentary in the form of a narrative paralleling the narrative of the tapestry. The tapestry itself is in remarkable condition considering its age, and the whole presentation is compelling.

From there, off we went by bus to the nearby city of Caen and the Memorial: Un Musée pour la Paix. While it has an emphasis on World War II, the museum's goal is to show the context of that war within the entire twentieth century. As such, the museum is arranged chronologically to show all of the major events of the century in a broad, sweeping vista. For me, the highlight was "Hope," a very moving retrospective film of the past 100 years.

After some time spent walking the grounds of the museum, including the Canadian and American memorial gardens, we headed into the city of Caen for a look around. Before the rain picked up, we got a look at the Church of St. Jean, Caen's answer to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Like the tower, it was built on unstable ground, and the bombardment of Caen during WWII didn't help matters any. During its post-war restoration, the church was stabilized, but it's got a permanent list.

Our last day in Normandy was also the 55th anniversary of D-Day, and while the whole region was aflutter with commemorative activities, we went to the Baron Gerard Museum to view his collection of lace, porcelain and paintings. We were among very few visitors to the museum, as everyone else for miles around was preparing for parades and observances. As we left the museum, we walked to Bayeux's central square, where vehicles were assembling for a parade later in the day. There were lots of Jeeps in excellent condition, fully outfitted with tools, radios, rifles and even .30 caliber machine guns. There were also trucks, vintage cars and an amphibious jeep. The owners of these vehicles were dressed in authentic uniforms; 1st Infantry, 82nd and 101st Airborne, British, French, and I think I even saw some German uniforms. ("Sorry, Jacques, it's your turn in the bad guy suit this year.")

Our schedule didn't permit us to stay for the parade, as we were to meet my mother and sister in Paris.