Jilemnice, Czech Republic

Our drive to Jilemnice was uneventful but scenic. We were expecting a snag, or at least some reaction, from the border guard as we crossed from Slovakia into the Czech Republic and gave over our smorgasbord of passports (one Czech, one Slovak, one Canadian, one U.S.), but I guess when you become a border guard, nothing surprises you anymore.

We came to Jilemnice, a small town near the German border, to visit with Josef and Eva Vancl, Pavel's cousin and her husband. The language barrier was again a problem for me, but everyone made a great effort to keep me informed. Still, sometimes I just resigned myself to not understanding and went along for the ride (sometimes literally, sometimes figuratively). Pavel and I had both picked up a nasty case of the stomach flu, presumably back in Slovakia, and it hit us here. Fortunately, Pavel managed to get out and see some sights that day, but I spent a whole day in bed resting. The family visited some local farmers, and without me around, they were able to converse in Czech without having to pause for translations. That evening, I was still feeling ill, so the next-door neighbor, a doctor, was called, and he made a (Gasp!) house call. He checked me over, diagnosed stomach flu and dehydration, and made some prescriptions, which were filled at a local pharmacy.

The next day, I was feeling better, but still not up to major sightseeing. In the morning we drove out to Víchová nad Jizerou, Pavel's boyhood hometown. We visited his parents' graves and his former home, and we took a walk along the banks of the local stream, marveling at the lifestyle differences in such a small town. After that excursion I felt it was best if I returned to the Vancls' for more rest while everyone else carried on. While they drove around viewing the local countryside and took in a carillon concert at a local church, I was seated in front of the TV, watching "Amerikanishe Gladiatoren" and "Hawaii Funf-0" and other American shows dubbed into German. My favorite was "Raumschiff Enterprise: Die Nachste Jahrhundert" ("Star Trek: The Next Generation"). Klingons dubbed into German don't seem at all inappropriate.

Finally, a day came where I felt I could rejoin the fun. We visited Trosky Hrad, a fourteenth century castle built upon two pillars of basalt left behind by an eroded volcano. It's quite the setting, and the view from the castle was splendid. From there, we went to Hrubá Skála, a park with giant sandstone towers. Formerly a hideout for crusaders and highwaymen, it is now a rock climbing mecca.


Later that day, we said farewell to the Vancls and the Dvoraks and caught a train to Prague.