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23 August 2008

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

Combine a family wedding in Slovakia with a professional conference in Copenhagen, and what do you get? A great excuse to travel. What don't you get? A convenient way to connect the dots.

So we strung together a series of flights, punctuated by a two-hour shuttle bus ride, to get to where we need to be when we need to be there. Los Angeles to Seattle to Copenhagen to Prague to Kosice, Slovakia, to Poprad, and then the reverse.

Leg #1: Los Angeles to Seattle. We checked our copious baggage in Los Angeles, hoping we'd see it again at some point, and boarded our first of two flights for the day. For some reason, a direct flight from LAX to CPH wasn't available, so we were sent via Seattle. Tessie had been excited for some time about riding on an airplane, so with great enthusiasm she allowed herself to be strapped in for takeoff. This being a short flight, her enthusiasm remained until it ended, whereupon we began a layover at Sea-Tac, and Tessie got her second Burger King meal of the day. Luckily for all of us, she didn't seem to like it too much. [Airline: Alaska. Kiddie freebie: Disney coloring book, but no crayons]

Leg #2: Seattle to Copenhagen. This was the longest flight of Tessie's life thus far and her enthusiasm from the previous leg had already worn away. Already an experienced jet-setter, she held the seat belt in particular disdain, and we had our hands full as she repeatedly requested to go for walks up and down the aisles. As the cabin arrangement was 2-4-2 and we had a window seat, only one of us could be by Tessie's side, thus magnifying the individual challenges, but allowing us to switch off. Tessie provided lots of challenge by refusing to just sit still and fall asleep until well into the flight. After that point, though, we were able to avail ourselves of the in-flight interactive video games and movies displayed on our individual seat back screens. Tessie slept until landing, sprawled sideways across a seat and a half. [Airline: SAS. Freebie: none, although a child-size sleeping bag was thoughtfully provided. Tessie hated it.]

Layover: We could have pressed on with our third leg at this point, but would still have needed to spend a night en route before arriving at our first destination, so we decided to split up our journey by staying one night in a city to which we would return later, Copenhagen. After storing a couple of bags we wouldn't be needing right away, we discovered how delightful it is to visit a city with a simple rail connection between its airport and downtown. No messing with taxis or shuttles; we just caught the train at the airport, rode it about ten minutes to get downtown, and walked from there to our hotel for the evening. The hotel itself was fine, if small, but we are glad Tessie is still too young to ask us about the adjacent "Erotic Lifestyle" shop and topless bar.

We checked in and then hit the sidewalk to stretch our legs, wandering the Stroget (pedestrian shopping zone) as far as the city's Botanical Garden. There, the scenery and pleasant cool air caught up with me and Tessie, and we fell asleep on a park bench overlooking a lake. Luckily, we weren't mistaken for transients, and woke up ready for dinner. We found it at Den Franska Cafe, a canal-side cafe with absolutely delicious smoked salmon sandwiches and fresh Tuborg beer on tap. After feeding ourselves we fed the canal's ducks and swans, then walked back to our hotel.

Unfortunately, it was at this point that Tessie got her second wind. She had no interest in sleeping, and, while we were exhausted, she carried on most vocally about her general disinterest in the idea. She did eventually fall asleep, only to wake up a few short hours later and send me on a hunt for a glass of milk. The receptionist at the front desk raided the hotel's breakfast supply for me, and thus I didn't have to head out to the local 7-11.

When we finally woke up for good, the hotel provided a great Scandinavian breakfast (bread, herring, yoghurt, herring, cheese, herring and herring), but the highlight was, of course, the Danish pastry. I don't know if that's what they're called there, though.

After breakfast, back to the airport.

Leg #3: Copenhagen to Prague. Tessie spent this flight alert and happily playing with stickers by applying them to herself, primarily her right leg. A short flight; the crew barely had time to reach altitude, serve a sandwich, and descend. That seems to be the way Tessie likes it. [Airline: Czech. Freebie: None!]

Leg #4: Prague to Kosice. A tight connection (which is actually a good thing as it eliminates a lot of down time that must be filled) got us on to our last flight for a while, this one on an ATR propeller-driven puddle-jumper for a one hour jaunt into our fourth country in two days, Slovakia. Tessie napped for almost the whole flight, but not before receiving a gift from the flight attendant: a little plastic helicopter toy. [Airline: Czech. Freebie: plastic helicopter!]

Leg #5, Kosice to Poprad. Our last "flight" of the day, a service of Czech Airlines, was a large van we shared with three other passengers for the ride to Poprad's bus station. We all slept for at least a part of the two-hour drive, but Tessie was out for the whole thing and needed to be awakened upon arrival. We were greeted at the train station by a large contingent of relatives who escorted us (and helped carry luggage) back to the apartment of Tessie's Mom's cousins Pet'o and Danka, where we will be staying for the next few days.



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